Click on a photo to enlarge it.
We managed to get up the hill out of Antigua without a problem and stopped to get propane. We met a Belgian couple who had just driven from
Panajachel and told us that the road via Patzún was shorter than the Panamerican highway route and not that steep but there was a bridge out
so we would have to get across the river. But they didn't think we would have a problem. They were wrong!
So we set off and took the shorter route. The first part was fine but then we got to Patzún and followed the signs. We ended up driving
along very narrow, one-way streets where all the roads to the left went very steeply down into the town à la San Francisco! All we could
hope was that we didn't have to turn left - we wouldn't make it. They were at least 50% grades.
But then the road was blocked ahead and this meant a sharp left turn with a high ledge for the footpath. So Kirsten had to get out to
direct both of us through with less than an inch to spare on either side. Helmut and Agnes's RV is a bit longer but they made it. (They
were also giving a lift to a young couple from Germany who certainly had an adventure that day!)
Then came another sharp left curve which we couldn't make so we had to turn right and then do a U turn! The normal route through the town
was down below but there was a funeral procession so they had a diversion on that day. They just forgot that one of the roads was blocked.
We finally managed to get through the town and shortly after the town we came to the river crossing which we also managed as the video
shows.
Crossing the river near Patzún.
The short cut route was definitely steep. There were also huge potholes and the streets kept getting steeper and narrower. The Panamerican
would have been better. But at least we got to see some great views.
We arrived in Panajachel just before sunset. The German couple managed to get the last boat across Lake Atitlan to San Pedro and we hunted
for a camping spot. We had a tip from Martina and Nicole about the Paradise Inn where you can park up for free in front of the hotel with
a great view of the lake and volcano. Perfect for us for the next 4 nights.
Sunset over Lake Atitlán - 360° Panorama(move mouse over panorama and click on the arrows)
Lake Atitlán is a poster child for Guatemala's natural beauty which is ringed by volcanoes and has been attracting tourists for decades.
The area was once part of a huge volcano that erupted 85,000 years ago and lost its cap. Apparently, ash and rocks were catapulted as far
as Panama.
Sunset over Lake Atitlán - 360° Panorama(move mouse over panorama and click on the arrows)
We went for walks into the town of Panajachel which is the most touristy of the towns around the lakes. The others are quieter and whilst
there is a road that goes around the lake, it would not be good for Winnie and would probably need 4 wheel drive.
We walked to nearby Santa Catalina to have a look at the little town but the best way is to take a boat. Tourists are charged at least
5 times more than the locals but it is still only about $3 per person to get across the lake. We wanted to get onto the local boat that
stops at each village along the lake edge as opposed to the tourist boat which just goes straight across. They really didn't want to let
us onto the local boat but we persisted and also had a bit of help from an American woman who now lives there.
We had also been warned that you have to pay when you get off the boat because otherwise you will end up paying more than once and each
boat has at least three captains who will come along for money, sometimes with official looking tickets! Tourists beware!
The local boat took one hour around the edge of the lake with various stops and we got off at San Juan. It was "Women's day" and the
indigenous women were treated to a free meal provided by a local restaurant - roast chicken with rice and tortillas. It looked so good
we got in the queue and joked with the ladies who thought it was really funny even though they knew we wouldn't take their food from them.
From San Juan we got a tuc tuc to San Pedro and walked through the streets although there wasn't much to see. Then we got another boat
to Santiago Atitlán and were met as we got off by a very short elderly gentleman who said he was a Shaman. He took us on a 1.5 hour walking tour
through the streets to see Maximón - a deity who gets fed alcohol and smokes a cigar and is worshipped here. Very odd!
Maximón is moved to a different house each year and we would never have found it without our guide Salvador. There were charges for
everything though - 2Q each to go to the toilet, 2Q each for entry and 10Q per photo. We also went to the church and town square before
getting a return boat to Panajachel.
In total it cost us $28 for the day so we can't really complain.
The next day we left Panajachel heading for Chichicastenango. The road via Solola to the Panamerican highway would be too steep for
Winnie so we drove back initially along the same road before turning left to get up to the Panamerican. Helmut and Agnes stopped along
the way but we continued.
It was steep but Winnie was doing fine until we got to the last steep hill when Winnie just got slower and slower on a very straight
uphill stretch. Kirsten got out to push but Winnie stopped. Behind us was a pick up truck and the two men stopped to give us a hand.
We got out some straps that we have and attached it to the truck to pull us but they broke on the first attempt. So we got out some
metal straps and a carabiner but the metal straps broke aswell!
So we tried it with just the two men and Kirsten pushing and Winnie made it up the hill and Kirsten had to get a lift in the pick
up truck because once Winnie got going Helen wasn't going to stop to pick her up!
We stopped up ahead at a junction as waited for Helmut and Agnes to catch up. It also gave us a chance to put Winnie's bonnet up to
let him cool down a bit. We certainly put him through his paces. We set off again together and stopped at various viewpoints along
the way up to the Panamerican. The road had been damaged by landslides in several places.
We crossed the Panamerican and turned north to Chichicastenango which is well known for markets on Thursdays and Sundays and we were
intending to stay for the Sunday market. But there was a problem - along the way the road goes steeply downhill to a river and just
as steeply back up the other side. We didn't know that until we were already there!
We had just had problems getting up the steep road from Panajachel so as we went downhill we checked it out and thought we could get
back up. Our problem came with the other side of the river where we didn't know how steep it was!
Just after crossing the river Helen stomped on the accelerator and almost immediately had to stop and pull over because a huge truck
came around the first curve on the wrong side of the road! Oh hell! Anyway, Winnie actually managed to start off again and Helen weaved
along the road which is something that Formula 1 race drivers do to get their tyres warm, but Helen did it because Winnie gains speed
in the bends of a road and thought it might help to keep Winnie going up the hill.
Helmut managed to try and stop traffic behind him from overtaking so I could weave across both sides of the road, but there was one
point where we knew Winnie needed help. Helen shouted to Kirsten to get out and push and Kirsten got onto the mike to tell Agnes to
get out and help aswell!!
Even though Winnie wasn't going very fast they still had to run to catch up and at 9000ft above sea level that is no easy task. Fortunately
one little push was all Winnie needed. Amazing that two women can push a three ton motor home up a 25% grade! Yet again Kirsten had to get
a lift, this time with Helmut and Agnes!!
It was nerve racking to say the least but we finally made it only to find that the streets in Chichicastenango are also very narrow and
mostly one way. It took us a while to finally find a place to stay which was at the petrol station that we had passed on our way through
the town!
We wandered around the town and took a look at the church but we weren't really impressed. Market day was two days away and Helmut and
Agnes decided they would leave the next day and head for Mexico. We went to a restaurant later and had a final meal together.
Afterwards we were invited over for ice cream and a red berry compote from Aldi in Germany! Quite a treat. Then we were treated to a poem
that Agnes had written for us. Sorry but it is in German and so long that I am not going to translate!
We didn't sleep well that night firstly because a lot of dogs were barking the whole time but secondly because we were worried about
getting back to the Panamerican highway. So we decided to give up on the Sunday market and got up at 6am to tell Helmut and Agnes we were
leaving too.
Winnie struggled again and Kirsten had to get out and give him a hand and took the following video of the before and after.
Winnie has problems on the steep roads.
Can't really blame Winnie - he only has four cylinders and weighs 3 tons. Just before we got to the Panamerican highway we stopped to say
a final farewell to Helmut and Agnes. 135 days through USA, Mexico and Central America together that was a very long and sometimes
difficult journey, but one that we certainly won't forget.
We have seen so much and done a great deal. Thanks to all the planning ahead of time by Kirsten and Agnes we managed to stick to the plan
really well and Helmut and Agnes set off with 5 weeks to get back to Baltimore in the States and ship their motor home back to Germany.
We had up to the 16th March in Guatemala and wanted to spend this time in the area around Quelzaltenango.
