Steintore
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Steintore
We started off on the Annapurna Base Camp trek and had a tough 1200m of ascent from Tatopani (1189m) to Chitre (2390m) with lots of stone steps. Most of the time it rained so we got out our new waterproof jackets out and tested them out. No leaks! The second day to Chuile (2245m) was even tougher - 1080m of ascent and 1240m of descent.
At least we got a hot shower and could hang out our washing which still hadn't dried. That evening we met a couple from Paris who had just got married and were on their honeymoon. Most people would choose Paris for their honeymoon but they had chosen the Annapurna Base Camp trek. That meant very basic accommodation, separate beds, thousands of stone steps and they didn't even get to see the Annapurna mountains because of bad weather!
The third day via Chhomrong to Bamboo (2400m) was yet another tough day with a huge amount of stone steps. I counted the steps on one uphill section and got to 565! There were at least 2000 more. We stopped for lunch and I got out a bag of crisps that had expanded so much I thought they would burst. We took a video as Kirsten tried hitting the bag to make it explode. Despite all her efforts the bag remained intact. In the end she just opened it normally - not even a small fart! What an anti-climax!
We were hoping to get to Annapurna Base Camp for the night but the path was blocked due to an avalanche and we had to follow a detour. Unfortunately the detour signs took us across a bridge across a river and then petered out. We searched in vain for the path and a way back across the river to rejoin the main path. There was too much water in the river to get across the stepping stones and it was too risky.
We looked across to the other side and saw porters using the blocked path across the snow. So we ended up walking back the way we'd come, crossed the river and got back to the main path. It wasn't easy following the footprints in the snow but we made it across the avalanche. We had wasted an hour and a lot of energy so we ended up staying at MBC - Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m) - for the night.
So we had an early start the next day to get to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m). We set off at first light and it took us 2 hours to get up there but the weather was good and we got great views of all the mountains towering above us. Annapurna South and Annapurna 1 were right in front of us along with massive glaciers. The whole area is a like a caldera and we were standing in the bowl with a great 360 degree view!!
Annapurna Base Camp - 360° Panorama
(move mouse over panorama and click on the arrows)
Annapurna Base Camp - 360° Panorama
(move mouse over panorama and click on the arrows)
We stayed for photos and breakfast and then started making our way back. I fell when we got back to the avalanche and took the skin off my left elbow. So Kirsten had to be nurse again. Then we got caught in a hail storm and managed to find a spot with an overhanging rock where we could take shelter.
The hail stopped but the rain didn't so we continued with all our rain gear on. There were several trekkers in shorts and sandals - they hadn't brought any waterproofs with them! We found a place for the night in Bamboo again.
The next day we had to walk up and down all the stone steps via Chhomrong to New Bridge (1340m). I counted one portion of them and gave up when I got to 2200!!! And that was just one small part of the path!
It was extremely hot and we managed to get to a teahouse where we found out that we could get to a bus on the final day of the walk. It was only 2 hours away and would save us from having to climb up even more steps in the blistering heat. We were completely fed up with all the steps.
We set off the following morning and followed the instructions we'd been given. This part of the walk was not marked and was not on any of the maps. Along the way we met an Australian trekker who was cursing his choices - uphill steps to the right or uphill steps to the left, both involving an ascent of 600m in the heat. He just wanted to finish - so did we!
We told him that we could go straight on along the side of the hill for another 30 minutes and get a bus or taxi to Pokhara. He was unbelievably happy. We'd made his day! He came with us and we shared a taxi back to Pokhara.
Annapurna Trail - Part 3: Mukthinath nach Pokhara
We were all happy that the walking was over - I wouldn't recommend the Annapurna Base Camp trek. Too many steps and you have to walk right up into the valley before you see any mountains! The Circuit trek is better but the Everest Base Camp trek is the best.
